So most people who know us, know that our office is a hop-skip from Scottsdale Waterfront. And that means we’ve been waiting for Culinary Dropout to open. The place, as you probably know because everybody’s got a food blog and they all say the same thing, is owned by Sam Fox—the guy who’s got Sauce Pizza + Wine next door and Modern Steak across the street. Dropout’s been doing friends and family for a couple days now, and last night we snuck in to say Hi to a couple mutual friends & family we’ve got with Fox:

The place looked pretty cool, as you can see from the spy shot here:

Well today we walked over for their first public lunch service. We were going to do a nice food review for all you nice folks, but look what happened.

This was the Fish & Chips.

This was a Cubano sandwich.

And here lied a Pub Burger with Havarti & bacon.

And it’s not that the fries sucked, its just that you really get lots of fries. And they were great. And in true Fox fashion, our server was sexy as hell. But we refrained from taking her picture because, hey, we’re sneaky but we’re not creepy!

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Y’ever wonder what a wine bar would like if it looked like Postino? It would probably look like either A) a bad knockoff or B) a good knockoff. No matter how you cut it, though, it’s a knockoff. Now, we’re not going to call 5th and Wine a Postino wannabe, but it kinda is.

Check the formula: Five dollar wine ‘till 6pm. Servers singin’ the praises of the bruschetta. A little parsons table in the middle of the room. An open layout that’s an 80/20 split between dining tables and a cluster of sofas and lounge chairs. But it differs by trying to cram in a bunch of other stuff onto the menu—confusing the concept or adding to the edible amenities? You decide.

It’s located in the old Fine’s Cellar space in Old Town. Owned by the Humble Pie team of Rich Sullivan, Tom Kaufman, Patrick King, and Dave Dabruzz, they could’ve used the help of a designer to tie the room together. It feels schlocked, with bad paintings of dogs, cheap plasticky furniture, and almost no creativity when it comes to flow. We remember Mike Fine talking about how the room looked like the inside of a wine barrel. Yea, well, sorry Mike, these guys killed your idea.

Before you begin thinking we’re headed down the slammin’ road, we must tell you the burger was actually quite solid, the calamari was as good as it is over at Humble Pie, and the wings were definitely worth an order. The fries, however, were the single-most compelling reason for a return visit. Extra crispy with a touch of parmesan, parsley, and a garlic aioli to dip – spot on and addicting as all hell.

But let’s get to the main ingredient—the bruschetta’s available in various combos, and we’ll admit we love the idea of portioning it down, because at Postino, you have to fully carb commit or box it up for later. But at 5th, you can just add a couple pieces to an order. Problem is, those couple of small pieces come floating along on a white plate, poorly presented with no background jazz or accoutrement. You can choose two types for $3.95, four for $6.95, and so on. Choices include combos like prosciutto, fig, mascarpone, and tomato jam; apple, brie, fig jam, and honey/agave; and tomato, mozz, basil, and balsamic. The bruschetta certainly wasn’t as memorable as our server said it would be, but you’d have to go full order of 12 for the pieces, cut in 2 not 4, to make a mark.

Something we found kinda ridiculous: the beer list includes the brew’s origin. Okay, but do you need to know that Coors Light comes from Denver Colorodo and that Bud Light comes from St. Louis, Missouri? It’s not like you’re questioning whether you want a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or from South Africa. A Coors is a Coors is a Coors.

As for wine, we definitely weren’t without good stuff to drink. But the funny thing is that, for a wine bar, it just felt more like a sit-down restaurant. But then again, maybe it’s both. You help decide.

Hours: 11am-11pm daily
$5 glasses of wine ’till -6pm
Happy hour 4-6pm

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Watch the video below. Better yet, listen to it. There’s a certain cadence in the voice of Payton Curry that reminds us of a seasoned bluesman, yet the guy’s still a baby (by bluesman years). Maybe he picked up the blues working at Digestif, the right restaurant run by the wrong guy. Maybe he picked it up at the second Digestif, a wrong move for the right chef. Or maybe it’s the lack of sleep from having a newborn, taking on the menu makeover at Tempe’s Caffe Boa and helping the owner—Jay Wisniewski—open a version of the Italian spot in Mesa by year’s end.

Curry lists more farms on his menu than a Farm-Aid concert lists beneficiaries. Some are abbreviated (“Q.C.O.O.”), others get the whole spellout (“MJ Artisanal Breadcrumbs”). And at first glance, the menu looks like a giant locawhore marketing scheme. But then you get down to forks and knives and you realize Curry’s really singing a soulful tune with all these farms and fresh-made pastas and simple flavor profiles.

Before our first dish even arrived at dinner there last week-ish, we were just happy to see and feel enthusiasm breathed back into the ‘ole place. Our last few visits to Boa were wrought with disappointment, so here was a chance for a fresh start (pun intended).

THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT
Kicking off with an appetizer of McClendon radishes set the simplicity tone. Tossed in Banyuls vinegar, Slovenian pumpkin seed oil (Wisniewski’s from Slovenia, so maybe they get a deal on pumpkin seed oil?!), shallots, parsley, plugra butter, and chives. With every bite, we kept wondering how Curry turned a simple pile of radishes into a killer, stand-alone app. But he did, and he did it with finesse. We tried a couple other things (all were great) but the radishes were a stand-out fave.

SHOWING OFF HIS NOODLE
Every single day, Curry and his crew turn out fresh pastas. But it’s the combination of ingredients after they’re shaped that will make Boa our new hit whenever we get the itch for good pasta. From packed agnolotti to extra-long maccaroncello, the current pasta menu seems tailored to the season, with butternut squash, sweetbreads, and grilled forest mushrooms as main ingredients. Most are priced around $16-$18, and portions felt spot-on.

THIS IS HOW WE DID IT
The menu’s built to order a starter, maybe split a pasta, then go entrées. We failed in that regard – blowing our order load early with a couple apps and three pastas. It’ll be tricky to go back and dive into entrées though, knowing that those noodles just came out of the flour earlier that day.

Wisniewski’s got some remodel plans for the dining room, playing up the bay windows and brick walls. But first, Curry needs new kitchen digs to keep up the pace of change in back. You know it takes a lot for us to endorse a place, and this one definitely gets it. View the menu here.

398 S. Mill Ave.
Tempe, AZ 85281
(480) 968-9112
www.cafeboa.com

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We ventured into Joseph Gutierrez’s recently opened Tutto in the old Digestif space last week, and in our opinion, things are off to a solid start for a guy who’s virtually assuming control of the dining scene at SouthBridge.

Absolutely nothing has changed about the interior design of Peter Kasperski’s old place, but the menu is headed in a nice, simple Italian direction.

For starters we tried the Tuna Carpaccio, Fried Calamari and the Squid Ink Risotto with shrimp and clams. All were good, especially the calamari. The risotto, while well-cooked, was a little too murky and sludgy, thanks to the squid ink. For entrees, we thought we should go simple, a pan-seared lobster tail atop a decadent pasta carbonara, a rustically prepared baked sea bass with mozzarella and eggplant caponata, and a soft, delicious Beef Tenderloin. Height seemed to be the presentation tactic in all the dishes we sampled. And butter seemed to be a preparation tactic. All were cooked and seasoned perfectly, but the butter level was off the charts. Without getting into specifics, prices were moderately high, but we didn’t feel gouged at the end of the meal.

Gutierrez, you may have heard, also took over the space that was going to hold Peter Kasperski’s Mexican Standoff (better known as Mexican Standstill). In its place, he’s opening Tapas Papa Fritas, small-plate Spanish food, sometime (he hopes) in the fall. And now that Fred Unger‘s Canal has closed, Gutierrez went for a three-fer and assumed the lease there as well, so he could open Acua sometime before fall. Acua will be Asian influenced, French cuisine.

Is Gutierrez the sole owner of all these places? Depends who you ask and what day of the week. He’s skirty but characteristically friendly about the issue. Whatever the case may be, he’s got history. He still owns and operates Cin-Cin Bistro across the street from the W Hotel, and was the longtime chef at the old L’Orangerie at the Arizona Biltmore. Here’s what we like: Gutierrez seems less about hype and kitschy themes, and more about running honest, simple operations. For that, we give the guy our props.

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This new place better be good or we’ll be really F-in pissed.

When Tapino closed, you caught everybody by surprise – a quick decision to turn off the lights faster than you can pull off a band-aid – Hey man, we know how it goes. But in the same fashion, you renovated a tiny building (formerly Buckets) down the block from the W Scottsdale and you’ve set an opening date of August 23. Bravo! Your French bistro, Petite Maison, will soon be filled with curious diners of all types.

Maison, to date, has all the right ingredients:

Small—22 seats in the dining room, 11 at the bar, and 30-40 tops outside.

Affordable—all wines are French and average about $7/glass (bottles ‘bout $20-$60). There’s an $8 burger, $8 dinner apps, $18 double cut lamb chop, $13 house-made charcuterie, and other items that don’t feel gouge-y. Yep, we said gouge-y.

Staff—Over 75% of the Maison staff comes from Tapino. Those kids are great and we’ll be happy to see them back in action soon.

Open late—dinner at 11? We’ll be there.

Central—that’s the beauty of Old Town. Everyone from your Robert Graham-wearing Scottsdalers to your faux-urbanist Phoenicians to your adventurous Chandler folk will gladly head to Old Town for lunch or dinner.

Twitter—You’re the first guy in AZ to figure out how to use this seemingly pointless social media tool properly. Sure, other chefs Twitter to alert regulars of specials or other irregular news, but you plan on tweeting every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night announcing the “Staff Meal”—the Frenchiest of French fare available only from 10pm to midnight. Dig it.

So here’s hopin’ the food’s killer and the price is right and the vibe is cool, because your Maison recipe sounds perfect. If it doesn’t work out, we’ll be really F-in bummed, man. Seriously bummed — But hey, no pressure.

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“Romeo famously mused, “What’s in a name?” – a rhetorical question I frequently ask myself with regard to restaurants.

In the case of Yasu Sushi Bistro, I’d say what’s in this particular name is a bit misleading. Although “Yasu” denotes its principal player (young and talented chef Yasu Hashino) and “bistro” accurately describes the hipness of the venue, “sushi” doesn’t begin to convey what this winning little restaurant can, and routinely does, do.” ~ Arizona Republic, Nikki Buchanan

Click here for full review

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“When people ask me to name my favorite cuisine, I usually say I like them all, a diplomatic but boring answer.

After three terrific meals at Metro Brasserie in Southbridge, I realize two things: What I really love and should unapologetically admit to loving is French food and the Southern cooking I grew up on. And if it weren’t for my desire to live to retirement age, I would eat fried foods and dishes smothered in rich, buttery sauces until I keeled over.” ~ Arizona Republic, Nikki Buchanan

Click here to read full review

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“When Michael DeMaria‘s Heirloom debuted during January’s economic free fall, the promotional campaign focused on how Heirloom could rein in spending and excess consumption. While the chef made the obligatory buzzword nod to his “local” and “seasonal” fare, DeMaria seemed more interested in talking up the scaled-back concept than in talking up his dishes.” ~ Howard Seftel, AZ Republic

Click here to read full review.

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We watched in horror as the Salon De Venus was getting raped from within. Another Phoenix gem going the way of beige corporatocracy, like the Washburn Piano Company.

BUT HELL NO —  Aric Mei and his father, Dan Mei, who own and operate the Ahwatukee Nello’s location came in an wacked one out the park with The Parlor.

They demo’d just about everything EXCEPT the beautiful block facade wall. Aric told us that he conceptualized the entire design and a great job he did. In his other life, the guy is an artist, so he was dead set on recycling as many materials from the old Salon as possible. Wood from the roof was used to make furniture and tables, and steel from the old sprinkler system was used to create the restaurant’s wine storage. They are also using used restaurant equipment and a new thermal solar hot water system.

The Meis are working with Valley chefs Jerry Alday (Radio Milano, Postino, and Chelsea’s Kitchen) and Jared Porter (the ex Chef De Cuisine at Olive and Ivy.) This group has put together a menu that is as casual as it is smart. Honestly, they hit the bullseye with this spot — service, menu, design, prices — they all are in harmony. Something that seems virtually impossible to find en masse in this town.

Everything we tried was solid (Arinici- Fried Risotto balls, Frito Misto, Pappardelle Bolognese, Funghi Pizza and a Sacissia Pizza with Schreiner’s sausage.) The Frito was the weakest of what we had, but not a deal breaker.

One recommendation: test your servers better. Ours had nothin’ goin’ on upstairs. It was like he had never eaten food before. He pronounced the Funghi Pizza as “Fun-Gee” and brought over a bowl of mixed olives, announcing that he had no idea what they were, but that they were gratis.

Another thing The Parlor could do better: BE OPEN ON SUNDAYS! Don’t know why restaurateurs in this town are petrified of Sundays and Mondays like nobody eats out on those two days … besides, that would be a great night for you guys to steal some of Cibo’s die-hards (if you’re into that kinda thing) because they’re dark on Sundays, too.

The Parlor
1916 E Camelback Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85016
(602) 248-2480
www.theparlor.us

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Okay, we’re all for “fresh” but isn’t using a living creature as garnish pushing the bounds of good taste?

At a recent visit to the W Hotel’s Sushi Roku, our spy was served a dish which was accompanied by a live sea urchin – dusted in gold flake, spines a’wavin’.  Says our source, “It was pretty disturbing, actually. I asked the manager what the heck I was supposed to do with it, and he said it was just decoration, and they dump it in the trash.”

Of course, the urchin could be eaten (a more dignified send-off than dumpster death) – provided the diner was provided a rather large, sharp blade but – really, does Roku’s shiny-shirt set possess the knife skills to send these invertebrates to their maker in a quick, humane manner? Eateraz doubts it.

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