TUTTO HIS OWN HORNO
Table Talk
We ventured into Joseph Gutierrez’s recently opened Tutto in the old Digestif space last week, and in our opinion, things are off to a solid start for a guy who’s virtually assuming control of the dining scene at SouthBridge.
Absolutely nothing has changed about the interior design of Peter Kasperski’s old place, but the menu is headed in a nice, simple Italian direction.
For starters we tried the Tuna Carpaccio, Fried Calamari and the Squid Ink Risotto with shrimp and clams. All were good, especially the calamari. The risotto, while well-cooked, was a little too murky and sludgy, thanks to the squid ink. For entrees, we thought we should go simple, a pan-seared lobster tail atop a decadent pasta carbonara, a rustically prepared baked sea bass with mozzarella and eggplant caponata, and a soft, delicious Beef Tenderloin. Height seemed to be the presentation tactic in all the dishes we sampled. And butter seemed to be a preparation tactic. All were cooked and seasoned perfectly, but the butter level was off the charts. Without getting into specifics, prices were moderately high, but we didn’t feel gouged at the end of the meal.
Gutierrez, you may have heard, also took over the space that was going to hold Peter Kasperski’s Mexican Standoff (better known as Mexican Standstill). In its place, he’s opening Tapas Papa Fritas, small-plate Spanish food, sometime (he hopes) in the fall. And now that Fred Unger‘s Canal has closed, Gutierrez went for a three-fer and assumed the lease there as well, so he could open Acua sometime before fall. Acua will be Asian influenced, French cuisine.
Is Gutierrez the sole owner of all these places? Depends who you ask and what day of the week. He’s skirty but characteristically friendly about the issue. Whatever the case may be, he’s got history. He still owns and operates Cin-Cin Bistro across the street from the W Hotel, and was the longtime chef at the old L’Orangerie at the Arizona Biltmore. Here’s what we like: Gutierrez seems less about hype and kitschy themes, and more about running honest, simple operations. For that, we give the guy our props.
Tutto 7114 E. Stetson Dr. Scottsdale 480.947.2129
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