
SEFTEL GIVES HANNY’S 3 STARS
The Dish
“Coming into Hanny’s, you’ll immediately spot the gleaming red prosciutto slicer and a wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano on the counter. They’re a reassuring sight.
What had been a landmark department store is now an eye-catching restaurant and lounge, courtesy of Karl Kopp, the man behind Scottsdale’s AZ88. The airy space has been beautifully restored, incorporating the handsome columns and designer names – Christian Dior, Hickey Freeman – etched on the walls. A huge bar dominates the middle of the room. Along with well-crafted classic (and smallish) cocktails – Manhattan ($6.50), sidecar ($8), Pimm’s Cup ($8) – there’s the usual assortment of trendy martinis, wines and beers.”
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Is this really Howie’s review, because it misses his signature self-plagiarism. Week after week, we read the same tired phrases over and over and over and over (and over).
For example:
Feb. 17, 2009 – The Mission
The plenty-to-share Alsatian tart ($9) is a guaranteed appetizer pleaser, its heady mix of caramelized onions, chunky bacon and Gruyère cheese singing in sweet, smoky and salty three-part harmony.
Feb. 3, 2009 – Metro Brasserie
He bewitchingly teams a trio of plump, oversize U-10 scallops (U-10 means fewer than 10 to the pound) with serrano ham, grilled octopus, hearts of palm and requeson. The flavors sing in choirlike harmony.
Enough with the singing.
Oh wait, no, the Hanny’s piece was edited to just a few hundred words, so the singing was cut.