AUTOSTRADA: THE ITALIAN JOB
Welcome
We know it’s not a popular opinion, but this recession thing has an upside. Sure it might be harder to make money these days, but some new restaurants recognize what a financial strain it is to remain a devoted foodie. So thanks, Aaron May, for easing up a little with your new restaurant, Autostrada, on Market Street at DC Ranch. Dinner for two will not only tally a bit less than some neighboring restaurants, but it will yield large portions that may end up (at least partially) going home with you.
Located virtually next door to his eponymous Sol Y Sombra, Autostrada is May’s newest gig, a smallish space designed with Italian Job-like references to motoring. Thankfully, the car theme isn’t expressed with Barrett Jacksonesque garishness – think Ferrari showroom floors, columns covered in subtle tire treads, and a bank of rearview mirrors.
As the distressed wood table tops hint, though, the name of May’s game here is “Italian rustic.” A simple sea bass prepared with charred green onions; roast chicken with rosemary and garlic, and a knockout Bucatini with meatballs (watch out Tarbell’s.) Sides like McClendon Baby gold and red beets with sheep’s milk ricotta and oregano for good measure, and sauteed Baby artichokes, lemon, garlic, mint and parsley sauce, are perfect barn mates to larger pasta and meat courses. When we told May that the chicken was a surprisingly stand-out fave, he replied “I knew I had to have it on the menu because there’s always some old lady who wants chicken, so I figured ‘Why not make it the bomb?’”
Running the show is Troy Watkins, a Sol y vet hell-bent on fine-tuning the details, like angling lights so no one is awash in spotlight, eliminating annoying drafts, or adjusting the music volume until it’s pitch-perfect. Troy, you’re off to a good start, man.
A PARTING THOUGHT—Will Autostrada survive? That’s up to the people who live up north. We can’t quite figure out why a 25-minute walk to dinner in Manhattan seems okay, but a 25-minute drive to dinner at DC Ranch seems unbearable. So while we promise to head up that way as much as possible, you, dear old Mr. & Mrs. Desert Mountain, must put this place on your regular rotation. Besides Chef May created a killer chicken just for you.
Autostrada 20825 N. Pima Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85255 (480) 513-2886
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